India proudly calls itself the land of handloom. From Banarasi sarees to Pochampally ikat, we tell the world that every thread carries the soul of our artisans. But behind this romantic image is a dirty truth — a ₹30,000 crore scam that is slowly killing the very heritage we boast about.
The Headline Numbers Nobody Wants to Discuss
Industry insiders estimate that fake handloom sales in India are worth more than ₹30,000 crore every single year. That’s bigger than the entire GDP of some small countries. And here’s the worst part — most of these fakes are sold openly in markets, exhibitions, and even on major e-commerce sites, right under the government’s nose.
How Powerloom Copies Handloom Patterns
Counterfeiters have mastered the art of cheating. They use high-speed powerloom machines to replicate traditional designs — from Jamdani motifs to Kanchipuram borders. A real handloom saree might take 10 to 15 days to weave, but a powerloom machine can churn out dozens in a single day. To make them look authentic, they even introduce small weaving irregularities by design, so that buyers think, “Ah, this must be handmade.”
The raw material is often synthetic or blended yarn, dyed to mimic natural fibre colours. The texture might fool even trained eyes — unless it goes through a lab test.
The Invisible War: Weavers vs Counterfeiters
For every fake saree sold, a real weaver loses an order. This is not just a market fight; it’s a war for survival. Weavers can’t match the price of fakes because real handloom requires days of manual labour and high-quality natural fibres.
Many weavers are leaving the craft entirely, forced to work as daily wage labourers or migrate to cities for survival. When a weaving family quits, we don’t just lose jobs — we lose centuries of skill passed down through generations.
Retailers’ Defence: “Customer Doesn’t Care”
When confronted, many retailers shrug and say, “The customer only wants the look, not the authenticity.” That mindset is deadly. It tells counterfeiters there is no need for ethics as long as people keep buying.
And let’s be honest — customers often don’t ask for proof. The words “pure handloom” on a tag are enough to make them feel good about their purchase. This blind trust fuels the scam.
The Silent Policy Failure
India actually has laws to protect handloom — certain products are banned from being produced on powerlooms, and GI tags exist to ensure authenticity. But the enforcement is laughably weak. Inspections are rare, penalties are minimal, and political pressure often ensures that counterfeiters keep running their machines without fear.
Some government handloom exhibitions themselves have been accused of hosting stalls selling powerloom products disguised as handmade. When the watchdog is asleep, the thieves run the show.
Call for Consumer Rebellion
This scam survives because we let it. Every time a buyer chooses a saree without asking for proof of authenticity, counterfeiters win.
If you truly care about supporting weavers:
- Ask sellers for weaver details and proof of authenticity.
- Support brands and cooperatives that provide traceability — whether through a Digital Product Passport, NFC chip, or verified certification.
- Refuse to buy anything that cannot prove it’s genuine handloom.
The ₹30,000 crore fake handloom industry thrives in silence. It’s time to break that silence. Because if we don’t act now, the next generation will only know Indian handloom as something they see in museums, not in their homes.